Lip makeup for Black and Brown skin tones: gloss, nude and colours
The lips of Black and Brown women are often pigmented and two-toned (darker upper lip): we never lighten them, we harmonise them, and we give them the light that matte takes away. The nude of Black skin isn't beige: it's caramel, mocha, rosy brown or soft plum. Gloss is ally number one. This guide explains how to find your nude, harmonise a two-toned mouth, choose your colours by undertone, and make it all last.
This is the "lips" guide of our complete guide to makeup for Black and Brown skin.
Why is lip makeup different on Black skin?
Three reasons: the natural pigmentation of the lips (often darker than the skin, sometimes two-toned), light absorption (a flat matte switches the mouth off), and contrast (bright colours are worn better than on any other skin).
The reflex inherited from classic beauty aisles, "a light beige nude for a natural look", is the worst choice: on pigmented lips, it greys and highlights the two-tone line. Conversely, a caramel, a brick or a blended plum looks natural because it extends the colour of the lips.
Finding your nude
Your nude is the colour of your lips, a little warmer and a little brighter. Test on the lower lip: if the colour blends in, it's the right one.
| Undertone | Nude that works | Nude that greys |
|---|---|---|
| Warm, golden | Caramel, soft terracotta, orange-brown | Light rosy beige |
| Cool, pink | Mocha, rosy brown, soft mauve | Yellow beige |
| Neutral | Cinnamon, medium brown | Light beige |
| Olive, mixed-heritage, tan | Brown peach, caramel | Pale pink |
At NEW BLACK, the two most requested "nude" glosses are Datte (warm caramel, slightly tinted) and Eau de Coco (luminous sheer, which leaves the natural colour of the lips). Colour details: Lip gloss for Black skin: which colour to choose. Finding your nude: Nude lips for Black skin.
Two-toned lips: harmonise without lightening
If your upper lip is darker than your lower lip, apply the gloss or colour a little more generously on the lighter lip, or draw the outline with a liner in the shade of the darker lip, blended into the centre. You bring the two towards the darker shade, never towards lighter.
What you don't do: cover the dark lip with concealer or foundation to "neutralise" it. It greys, it cracks and it shows. A two-toned mouth harmonised with light and a liner is more beautiful than a uniformed mouth.
Gloss, lipstick, liner: which one, when?
- Gloss: light, dimension, comfort. On its own for a natural look, over a colour to bring it to life. A tinted gloss is the easiest product to start with. NEW BLACK gloss, 5 shades.
- Lipstick: for full colour and wear. On Black skin, prefer a satin or creamy finish; a full matte needs a gloss in the centre so it doesn't switch the mouth off.
- Liner: outline and wear. In the shade of the darker lip to harmonise, or in the shade of the lipstick to make it last.
The colours that flatter
Orange, brick, burgundy, plum, violet, cherry: Black and Brown women wear colours nobody else wears as well. By undertone: warm → orange, brick, mango; cool → plum, violet, raspberry; neutral → burgundy, cherry. Light pastels (candy pink, pale coral) go grey.
Our gloss range runs from luminous sheer (Eau de Coco) to warm (Datte, Mangue) and deep (Maracuja, Safou).
Making it last
- Hydrated lips (balm in the evening, not right before).
- Liner over the whole outline, then filled in.
- Colour, tapped in with a finger for a blended result.
- Gloss in the centre or over the whole mouth.
- Gloss touch-up during the day: that's the move that makes the whole thing last.
By occasion
- Every day: gloss alone (Eau de Coco or Datte).
- Bride: liner + colour + gloss, touch-up kit. See Bridal makeup for Black skin.
- Evening: burgundy, plum or orange with liner, gloss in the centre. See Evening makeup for Black skin.
- Mature skin: comfortable gloss, warm nude; avoid dry mattes and very dark colours that harden.
The NEW BLACK range for lips
- Gloss: Datte (caramel), Eau de Coco (sheer), Mangue (orange), Maracuja (deep brown), Safou (plum). Discount from two.
- Gift set: 2 glosses of your choice + a wax bracelet.
Designed in Paris, made in Italy.
Our lip guides
- Lip gloss for Black skin: which colour to choose
- Nude lips for Black skin: finding your nude
- Natural makeup on Black skin (nude lips, step 6)
- Bridal makeup for Black skin
Frequently asked questions
Which nude for Black skin?
Caramel, mocha, rosy brown or cinnamon depending on the undertone, never light beige. A sheer or slightly tinted gloss leaves the natural colour of the lips and lights them up.
How do I make up two-toned lips?
By harmonising them towards the darker shade: liner in the shade of the dark lip blended into the centre, gloss more generous on the lighter lip. Never light concealer on the dark lip.
What lipstick colour for dark skin?
Orange, brick, mango on a warm undertone; plum, violet, raspberry on cool; burgundy, cherry on neutral. Avoid pastels.
Gloss or lipstick on Black skin?
Gloss for light and a natural look, lipstick for full colour; both together for occasions. A full matte needs a gloss in the centre.
How do I make gloss last?
Liner underneath, colour tapped in, gloss on top, and a touch-up during the day. Lips hydrated the night before hold the product better.
Written by the NEW BLACK editorial team · Reviewed by Charlotte Mambo, NEW BLACK makeup artist · Updated 9 September 2026